After reading about it on a few sites, I checked out the video of the recent Alfred E. Smith Memorial Dinner in New York City. Traditionally, the two major party presidential candidates are guests of honor at this event every 4 years and their speeches, well, let's just say you won't usually hear these speeches on the stump. Not only because they are funny but because these guys aren't acting like they do on the stump - funny, respectful, self-deprecating, and engaging.
McCain is loose, entertaining, gracious, and nails his jokes and skewers Obama with a good natured laugh (watch here and here). Watching him feels more like watching the John McCain of 2000, the presidential candidate John McCain who I actually liked. If that was the McCain who was running this year, it might be a very different race.
As for Obama, while he does look a bit tired, he is still smooth and funny, willing to be self-mocking while also firing some entertaining barbs at McCain, Palin, Bill Clinton, and others (see here and here).
However, I have to say, that in this particular debate, McCain wins hands down.